2:36 am: From the top bunk, I come to as my phone starts going off. “Shh” I quiet my alarm as I throw a sleepy arm towards it. No time to snooze this morning. A solo adventure awaits me today, and I leave my hostel roommates behind as I sneak to the bathroom with my extra layers and toiletries.
2:52 am: Clothes on, teeth brushed, and glasses on, I decide the contact lenses can wait. It is too early to harass the eyes with small plastic sorcery seeing pieces. I grab some snacks for later, and I’m ready.
2:59 am: With a foot still steady in dreamland, I relish in the state a few winks from returning to sleep. There’s no need to wake up, really: the three hour drive will be much easier when I affix my eye mask and earplugs. All I have to do is allow the windy road to lull me back to sleep to continue my dream of a full night’s rest.
3:02 am: Finally, only a few minutes late, the guides and their minibus arrive. Happily, I slide into an empty window seat, two seats for myself.
4:18 am: I’m disoriented upon my sleepy brain reentering my body. My arm is asleep and as I move it around to allow blood back in, I check to see if it’s still the middle of the night. Oh good, still time to sleep. It’s cold though, so I put on all my layers– even my gloves– to finish the journey.
5:50 am: As we make our arrival, the sun is just beginning to rise and alight the mountains we are surrounded by. The views are stunning as I nibble on my to-go breakfast and prepare myself and my bags. Most notably, I attempt to warm up my feet before they enter the cold boots I have to change into now.
The gear that I am borrowing makes this trek possible: I own no proper boots or gloves, let alone a harness or crampons, for the climb. Another guy will be climbing with us, and I officially meet the guide as well, now that I am busying myself to stay awake.
6:15 am: All geared up, we focus our attention on the peak. Nevado Mateo is the name. At 5150 meters (16900 ft) this lower peak in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru is suitable for mountaineering beginners like myself. Having completed the necessary preparations, we walk away from the vans and towards the start of the hike.
6:37 am: We come across an exposed scrambly bit that has me breathing hard. I look to my left and see bolts– wait, are we supposed to be protected in this section? I focus on the rock in front of me. It’s easier than it looked from below, and the boots I’m using are sturdy. Most of the recent trekking I had been doing was walking style hiking, so it’s a good change to ascend more vertically. Breathing out slowly, I make it past the sketchy section with no problems.
7:22 am: We get through the whole rocky part of the hike and rest at a flat area a few meters before the snowy tracks begin. We’ll all be attached with rope through our harness for the remainder of the journey, so we take a bathroom break, too. As we put on crampons, the guide lets us know that we’re about halfway to the summit. Wooh!
7:36 am: We hit the snow with enthusiasm. It’s cool to be all geared up and learn how to walk with the crampons, but it’s taking more energy than without.
The steep climb intensifies more as we are forced to stay together. I normally enjoy taking my time to climb long ascends, either by resting occasionally or simply reducing my average speed. In this moment, I lie to myself to stay motivated, saying it’s fine, that I can keep up. But the more we climb, and the more vertical the path, the harder it is to maintain the pace. Struggle lights up my mental and physical being.
7:50 am: As we sustain our fast paced attempt, more complaints start spilling out of my head, a few reaching the group. Between not wanting to slow the group down and testing my physical limits, I am occupied with negativity and have to bring myself back to the present.
I remind myself that we are hiking at very high altitude, and although adjusted from the week of trekking before, it is the highest above sea level I’ve ever been in my life. This is also my very first summit attempt with a snowy peak and gear involved, and potentially the first that I count at all.
Regardless of the self-talk, I am struggling for real. I request that we follow a slower pace.
8:03 am: It’s either due to my clear need for a break or the guide’s routine, but we make it to a flat part and rest. Once I catch my breath, I break off a piece of dark chocolate before our final push to the summit.
8:14 am: When the guide announces to us that we nearly have reached the top, I look up and see others enjoying the views from the highest point. I didn’t expect it so soon! Suddenly, the burn in my lungs and tightness in my legs is replaced by the joy of being so close to the finish line. Just a few more steps and…
8:19 am: Immediately upon the relief of arriving, I forget how hard the climb had been. I am almost disappointed because I have energy now to continue. I tell this to my guide, who shakes his head with a laugh at my sudden change of heart.
The summit is a party, full of energy, of people high on achievement and overcoming challenges. It is incredible to share this moment with strangers and marvel in the views we have been granted from this vantage point together. We share our snacks and take pictures with our new friends and of the views.
8:48 am: We head back eventually, and take frequent pauses to enjoy the scenery. The cold wind is bringing in fog and clouds, so we have to start moving to avoid any late morning storms.
It is different to go down because the rope needs to be taught– if someone falls you can protect them this way. I like being in the middle, but the descent gets scary when we walk almost straight across a steep descent. If someone fell here, it would be scarier than normal. Once I get in the rhythm, I go quickly and without much error.
9:22 am: The downclimb on the rock wasn’t bad at all. The guide helped in one case, showing me where to put my feet. Thank you Sr. Guide, I’m sorry I forgot your name.
10:31 am: I eat a much needed sandwich and write in my phone journal: “but wowwwww i am so proud. it is all worth it. you can also see how happy i am in these pictures :)) lunch was well deserved. love my life <3”
1:19 pm: And I continue my writing in the quiet, calm that the return bus offers: “ this is type 2 fun!!! i like this feeling a lot am i supposed to keep doing this because as much as i remember the fun part it was sooo hard mentally and physically in the middle there. (good to remember that!) “
“i am so happy, i think this is the proudest i have ever felt of myself. i summited nevado mateo today at 5,150m!!!!”
Can’t wait for the next mountain to summit! Just like, I’m sure, you can’t wait for next weeks post. See you then!
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